Installing a Subpanel for a Workshop or Garage
When a subpanel makes sense and what the installation requires.
By Electric · · 4 min read
When you're running power tools in a workshop or garage, you quickly learn that a single circuit from your main panel isn't enough. A subpanel gives you dedicated circuits for your equipment without overloading the rest of your house. If you're tired of tripping breakers or running extension cords across the shop floor, a subpanel is the practical solution. It's also the right move if you're planning to add a detached garage or workshop building. We install them regularly, and the process is straightforward when you know what you're doing.
Why Your Workshop Needs Its Own Power
A typical home circuit handles 15 or 20 amps. Add a table saw, air compressor, and dust collector all running at once, and you're asking for trouble. Each tool draws serious current at startup, and they compete for power on the same circuit. A subpanel lets you dedicate separate circuits to each major tool. A 60-amp subpanel is standard for a serious workshop. It gives you room to run multiple circuits without the constant breaker trips that kill productivity and can damage equipment over time.
The Difference Between a Subpanel and a Transfer Switch
People sometimes mix these up. A transfer switch connects a generator to your home during an outage. A subpanel is permanent wiring that distributes power from your main panel to a distant location, like a garage or workshop building. Both require proper sizing and installation, but they serve different purposes. If you need both, we can help you plan that out. Most workshop owners start with just the subpanel.
Running the Feeder Cable
The cable that carries power from your main panel to the subpanel is called the feeder. For a 60-amp subpanel, you need 6-gauge copper wire, which is thick and heavy. The cable runs through conduit for protection, either buried in the ground if it's running to a detached building, or through the walls and foundation if the workshop is attached. We always run it in conduit, even when code might allow otherwise. It protects the wire from damage and makes future work easier. The run can't be longer than necessary. If your shop is 100 feet from the house, that's a long pull, and the cost reflects it. The closer the better.
Grounding and Bonding Matter
The subpanel has to be grounded properly. If it's in a separate building, it needs its own ground rod driven into the earth, plus a copper wire running back to the main panel ground. If it's attached to the house, the ground wire ties into the main panel ground. Bonding means making sure all metal parts of the electrical system are electrically connected so fault current has a safe path. This isn't something to guess on. A grounding fault can kill someone. We verify everything with a multimeter and test equipment before we close up the walls.
Permit and Inspection
Any subpanel installation needs a permit in most jurisdictions. Some homeowners skip this step to save money, but the inspector catches it eventually, and then you're paying to fix it under pressure. A permit costs less than a service call to troubleshoot a problem later. The inspection happens after the rough-in, before drywall, and again after final connection. The inspector checks wire size, breaker sizing, grounding, and bonding. It takes an hour and keeps everyone safe.
Sizing the Subpanel and Breaker
The main breaker in your subpanel has to match the wire size. A 60-amp breaker requires 6-gauge wire. A 100-amp subpanel needs 2-gauge wire and a larger conduit. Most workshop owners don't need 100 amps, but if you're running heavy industrial equipment or planning future additions, it's worth the extra cost now instead of upgrading later. We'll walk through your tool list and actual usage patterns to size it right. Oversizing wastes money. Undersizing leaves you frustrated.
The Actual Installation
Once the feeder is run and inspected, the subpanel itself gets mounted on the wall in the workshop. It's a steel box with a main breaker and slots for individual circuit breakers. We connect the feeder to the main breaker, then run individual circuits from the subpanel breakers to outlets and equipment around the shop. A typical workshop layout gets a circuit for wall outlets, one for the compressor, one for the table saw, one for the dust collector. Each tool gets its own space so nothing competes for power.
What It Costs
A basic 60-amp subpanel installation runs between 1,500 and 3,000 dollars depending on the distance the feeder has to run and whether it's buried or in-wall. A detached building with buried conduit costs more than an attached garage with interior wiring. Permit and inspection fees vary by county. We give you a firm quote after looking at the site and understanding your layout.
If you're building a workshop or tired of managing power in your garage, call Electric Connection. We'll assess your setup, size the panel correctly, and handle the whole job from permit to final inspection. You'll have reliable power and the ability to run your tools without compromise.